The thing about fashion is that everyone thinks they’re an expert. And with influencers constantly telling you what to wear, how to wear it, and what’s out, it’s easy to fall into the trap of ubiquity. But if you want to learn about fashion seriously and understand how to create, the internet can be your college professor—you just need to know how to use it. My personal hack is to follow archival accounts that offer deep dives into the work and legacy of the masters, whether a specific designer or photographer, or a particular period in sartorial history.
One of the most underrated aspects of student life is access to a library, and to me, these online archival accounts are the digital versions of a section in a library. Granted, the information available is bite-sized, chewable, sometimes downright premasticated to appeal to your brain that's craving a rat-snack equivalent of something new every hour, but you’re bound to learn something new and useful for your practice.
Here are some of my favourite online archives.
SHOWStudio
You cannot speak fashion unless you’ve spent some time paying attention to video interviews by way of Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio. His seminal work of fantastical and provocative images aside, the British photographer is heavily invested in the fashion community and the larger role it plays in the zeitgeist. A tome of video journalism, the account is as powerful a resource as any mainstream fashion publication. Knight’s careful curation of panelists is beyond the realm of fame, making it one of the most authentic perspectives on the times we live in.
LEWIS’S
Fashion criticism is a dying art. In the age of Instagram and instant gratification, runway reviews are often rushed anecdotes between shows. To get a well-rounded perspective on the design language of a house and one that isn’t biased towards advertisers is rare. On his Instagram page, @lewissmag, Jeremy Lewis, former editor and publisher of Garmento, explores the growing relationship between designers and clothing, including detailed comparison of seasons. Plus you can see some gorgeous archival imagery and campaigns.
What’s Contemporary Now
Hosted by Christopher Michael, What’s Contemporary Now is a podcast featuring those shaping fashion and popular culture. The conversations blend perspectives of visionaries and senior members of the industry with the problems of today to untangle some of the questions creatives struggle with.
Canary Yellow
Virgil Abloh, who was instrumental in shaping the current face of streetwear, passed away in 2021 at the peak of his career. His creative vision is a case study in melding music culture and design thinking. He left behind his notes on creation in a comprehensive design archive on Instagram, called @canary_yellow, which summarises his work for the last 15 years. This repository will be a big help if you’re keen to dig into and dissect recent fashion history.
Okuntakinte
Joseph Awuah-Darko, who founded The Noldor Artist Residency, is a Ghanian social entrepreneur and artist who goes by the handle @okuntakinte on Instagram. His feed is a live source of inspiration, motivation, and support for other creators. On days when the chips are down, even a small blurb of compassion from his feed will give you the reassurance you need. Learn from his learnings to heal and hone your relationship with your craft.