Brides, it’s okay to opt out of that red lehenga

For years, the image of the quintessential Indian bride has been painted in our minds in deep shades of red or pink. But a subtle shift is taking place on the wedding scene; call it a whisper of rebellion against tradition, but white is in. More and more Indian brides are choosing the classic charm of ivory, cream, and subtle shades of off-white for their big day.

This isn’t just a fleeting trend. In 2022, actor Alia Bhatt’s choice of an ivory Sabysachi drape may have cemented this shift, but it can be argued that Anushka Sharma’s blush-toned wedding in 2017 paved the way for this exploration of softer colours.

Earlier this year, Sonakshi Sinha, chose a white-on-white chikankari-embroidered sari from her mother’s personal collection for her intimate, at-home celebrations, saving the sindoor-red Raw Mango sari for the reception that took place later on.

Social media has not just shown us the details of these celebrity wedding looks, but also expanded the range of inspirations available to new brides. Designer Abhinav Mishra, who recently unveiled his collection of white bridalwear, says, “Platforms like Instagram have also opened up a global view of bridal fashion, making brides more aware of international trends, where white is more commonly used for weddings.”

But if you really look around, there are many parts of India where brides traditionally wear white, too. There’s the Christian community that has long favoured the colour, there’s the white-and-red panetar drape worn by Gujarati and Kutchi brides, the white-and-gold Kasavu saris of Kerala, and the pristine mekhla chadors worn by Assamese brides.

Still, it can be tricky for to-be brides to wear white to their weddings in India. In many communities, the colour is associated with mourning and grief, and remains taboo; if not in the mind of the bride herself, then for elders in her family. So what can you do if your mind is set on a white outfit?

Some will compromise, donning white for the pre- and post-wedding shenanigans like the sangeet or reception, leaving the bold colours for the big day. Others will fight for their right to dress the way they like. Radhika Hora Parecha, a 28-year-old bride, wore a white Abhinav Mishra lehenga for her wedding reception (after battling with family over it). She recalls, “I have always liked white, but never envisioned myself wearing such a subtle colour for my wedding. It’s such a no-no in [much of] India. But observing more brides choosing it motivated me to take this leap. And I was sold on the lehenga (which was originally yellow in colour) and asked them to customise it in white.”

Sabeena Ahmed, a 33-year-old Delhi-based designer who always had a penchant for a more neutral palette, shopped for her wedding looks on her own, without her family, to avoid any unnecessary tussles. “Parents in India are still quite against their children wearing white,” she laughs. In the end, Ahmed chose a pale, pastel-green Seema Gujral sari embellished with white embroidery for her wedding, which took place earlier this year, and an ivory Sulakshana Monga anarkali kurta for her engagement.

What many are realising now is that white doesn’t have to mean vanilla. Mishra explains, “Designing white bridalwear requires an emphasis on texture, embellishments, and structure. I rely on traditional techniques like mirror work, heavy embroidery, and luxurious fabrics like silk or organza. The challenge is to make white feel opulent and ceremonial.” Karan Berry, co-founder of Karleo, a label that specialises in couture wedding gowns adds, “Brides are also steering away from traditional paisley designs, opting for western embroidery and geometric patterns.” Berry has also noticed that Indian brides are ditching the traditional lehenga for something a little more unexpected. White wedding gowns, in sleek column shapes that drape like a sari or voluminous poufs that mimic the skirt of a lehenga—a change from the more typical silhouettes of a Hindu wedding.

Designer Krésha Bajaj, who wore an ivory-coloured outfit for her own wedding in 2016 and whose eponymous brand caters to a significant number of white- and pastel-wearing brides, says it’s not a complete shift. “It’s still white with a hint of colour. They still aren’t opting for full white.” A pop of colour, be it a blush or a crimson dupatta, adds a little something and will probably keep the relatives happy. It’s a marriage of tradition and contemporary style, proving that when it comes to bridal fashion, the only rule is to make it your own.