Foundation is to me what purses are to Carrie Bradshaw—I feel naked in public without it. For long, it was a protective armour shielding my vulnerabilities, which stem from the aftermath of adult acne—a smattering of spotty discolouration. Full-coverage foundations are a rite of passage, and so, my first foundation was the M.A.C Studio Fix. With its viscous thickness and matte finish, it was the holy grail of foundations for teens in the Noughties (still is for many), and for good reason—its concealing prowess is unparalleled. The MO in that era was to slap it on thick and disguise any semblance of texture. I could feel my confidence build with each scar (temporarily) rendered invisible.
But somewhere along the way, between the pandemic and the changing beautyscape, my relationship with foundation evolved. Today, it’s spot concealing on some days and lightweight foundations used parsimoniously on others. I feel secure enough in my skin peeking through, but I can't match Pamela Anderson’s bare-faced bravado. Yet.
Anderson’s appearance at Paris Fashion Week sans make-up was a moment in the skin positivity movement. She is far from the first woman to appear bare-faced on the red carpet. But when someone like Anderson—an ultra-glamorous persona—forgoes make-up and accepts her 50-something skin, it’s an empowering statement.
There's probably good reason for its name—foundations are after all the backbone of make-up. But the beauty industry has been moving towards lightweight products for a while now. We went from streaks of powder blushes on the apples of the cheeks to cream brushes on the highs of the cheekbones; we swapped generously applied foundation layers for veil-light versions. Not only have our techniques and aesthetics refined, so have the formulas. On a spectrum of fully contoured Kardashian in the late ’00s to Anderson circa now, you can find a middle ground in Hailey Bieber’s clean girl aesthetic. The model-turned-entrepreneur is the poster child of this minimal beauty aesthetic taking over Instagram and TikTok, emphasising a natural no-make-up make-up look. The key to achieving this is in the new-age foundation alternatives. From skin tints and serum foundations to tinted moisturisers and SPFs, these hybrids have an ultralight texture and a sheer tint that offers the lightest touch of coverage and a dewy finish. They let your skin shine through but still feel glam enough for those who don’t want to leave home without a thin veil of base make-up. Unlike first-generation foundations that did little more than conceal, the recent innovations are spiked with skin-nourishing additives that you would find in high-performing serums.
The Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Skin Tint SPF 15 was one such product that launched late last year. “There is an undercurrent of skincare claims backing make-up efficacy,” says Mridula Sharda, senior educator, Bobbi Brown India. “Consumers want their make-up to contain more skin-loving ingredients and this ‘skinification of make-up’ has led to consumers seeking opportunities to enhance their look while letting the skin breathe.”
Kiro is one of the homegrown brands that’s introduced products in this category, with its Daily Dew Serum Foundation, a one-step, skincare-energised base product. “The launch of our serum foundation was driven by shifting consumer preferences and market trends,” explains founder Vasundhara Patni. “Consumers are increasingly valuing comfort and skincare benefits in their make-up products.” Where heavy-coverage foundations are a lot of work and time-consuming, Patni wanted to highlight the effortlessness of skin tints. “The aim was to create a lightweight product that’s easy to use on the go without special skills or make-up tools.”
Another issue with full-coverage foundation is how it settles into fine lines and creases. When I switched to skin tints and serum foundations, I discovered how nicely they play with my slightly uneven skin that’s not in its 20s anymore. “They have become the most modern way to achieve radiant skin,” says Leiya Phinao Ningshen, national artist, M.A.C Cosmetics India. “Products like the M.A.C Studio Radiance Foundation are weightless and glide seamlessly, leaving the skin looking like its healthiest version with ample glow.” Ningshen notes that the demand for a barely-there base stems from self-acceptance. “I see a shift in accepting flaws and embracing one's true self. People are opting for natural beauty and celebrating individuality.”
More swaps to full-cover foundation:
